Towards the Fowey
The town of Fowey and the river of the same name, are these days best known as the home of the author Daphne du Maurier. Because of this the town has become a mecca for lovers of her work who crowd its narrow streets, especially during May when a literary festival takes place.
Those wanting a quieter time should stick to the eastern banks of the river, where the village of Polruan guards the harbour mouth. The village was the setting for du Mauriers first book, ‘The Loving Spirit’ and just up the creek behind the village lies Lanteglos Church, where the young author married in 1932. With its waterfront pubs, Polruan makes a great place to finish the day, as the last rays of the sun shine down on the little quay as you look across at the lights of Fowey.
A passenger ferry to Fowey operates all year round from Polruan and can be combined with the ferry further upstream at Bodinnick to create a classic circular walk. A description of the walk can be downloaded here. Hall Walk
As mentioned, at Bodinnick, a second ferry crosses the river. This one takes cars as well as passengers running from 7am to 7pm (later in summer months). Ferryside, the house on the water at Bodinnick was where du Maurier first lived when she moved to Cornwall.
As the river winds its way upstream, wooded creeks cut inland through the lush fields. At the end of one of these sits the pretty village of Lerryn. Said by some to be the inspiration behind the wild wood in ‘Wind in the Willows’ the woodland either side of the village provides wonderful walks, especially in the spring when they are rich with bluebells.
At Lostwithiel , once the capital of Cornwall, the river becomes too shallow to navigate. Here the Medieval street plan still exists and provides the visitor with a labyrinth of antique shops and friendly cafes. A short distance from the town is Restormel Castle, built for the Black Prince in the late 13th century. Visitors can still walk its ramparts and look down into the valley below.
Above Lostwithiel the river snakes its way past the National Trust property at Lanhydrock with woodland walks at Respryn Bridge. More walking can be found as it tumbles off the moor at Golitha Falls, changing from a moorland stream to a full river.
All along the river there are pleasant surprises for those on foot or touring around. Hidden farmhouses or waterfront inns offer accommodation and you never know when you might find an award winning cream tea. Like much of south east Cornwall, it is only when you get away from the main resorts that you find the true country.
